There are three techniques used to manufacture scissors, each providing different results:
(a) Two-piece scissors are constructed using two separate pieces of metal, with the blade forged and joined to the handle. This is the best, but most expensive way to make scissors. The high quality steel used in the blades can hold a sharper edge. But this characteristic comes at the cost of flexibility as the metal can be brittle. The softer steel used on the handles bends more easily. This makes the scissors extremely sharp yet highly adjustable.
(b) Forged scissors are stamped from one piece of metal. The metal is then heated and hammered into shape (similar to what a blacksmith does).
(c) Cast scissors are made from molten metal poured into a mould. This is a cheaper way of producing scissors. Though they can be quite good, depending on their source, they can break if adjusting is attempted.
2. What's good steel?
The hardness of the steel is very important when it comes to scissors. Stainless steel is the most common metal in haircutting scissors. Stainless steel is ideal for a student of cosmetology or a beginning hair stylist because it is less expensive. Although these scissors may provide a satisfactory cut, they won't last very long.
Stainless steel alloyed with substances such as cobalt and molybdenum gives increased the strength. "Japanese Stainless Steel" is a more common term for this type of metal. The added alloys offer a higher grade of steel. It it used in higher-end scissors that will hold their edge for longer. These scissors glide through the hair with precision.
Generally speaking, as you go up the range of quality scissors, they get sharper. As they get sharper, you need to use better metals that are strong enough to hold their edge.
Coloured Scissors are coated with titanium which is used because it accepts colour infusion and doesn't scratch easily.
European style scissors are bevel edged. This means that the edge of the blade is cut at an angle to the rest of the blade. Because this style of scissors actually use the pressure of the blades against each other to "mash" the hair, they are very heavily set. In comparison to Asian style scissors, they generally feel and sound "crunchy".
Asian style scissors have a convex blade. Convex scissors can support a very sharp edge, with a greater thickness of metal closer to the edge. The Asian manufacturing style uses balanced faces to keep the scissor blades perfectly aligned to each other; therefore, the scissor can be very lightly set with the curve of the blades toward each other from the pivot to the tip. When compared to the European style scissor, they generally feel silky smooth and are also much sharper; this is because the blades are kept aligned by the balance faces.
Japanese made scissors are regarded as the benchmark, though you can also get very good quality scissors from Korea and China.
4. How long will my scissors last?
Quality scissors, coupled with proper maintenance and sharpening, can last for many years. Five to eight years is not uncommon.
5. How often do my scissors need to be sharpened?
The number of haircuts you can expect from each sharpening varies widely. The major factors that have an impact are: the quality of steel in your scissors blade, the care you take of your scissors, the amount of dry hair, dirty hair, chemically treated hair and course hair you cut. We suggest that you have your scissors sharpened at least every six months, so you are always cutting with sharp tools.
6. How many times can they be sharpened?
If your scissors are made from quality steel and have been sharpened properly they will last for many years.
Proper daily care will maximise your scissors' performance and allow you more efficient use of your time behind the chair. Check the tension regularly. One common mistake is setting the tension too loose. While it may seem that you're saving your hand muscles, you're actually damaging the scissor edge and causing more stress to your hand. To test the tension, hold your shear by the finger hole and point the blades straight up, now lift the thumb hole up so the blades are fully open (no edges overlapping). Now, let go of the thumb hole and let the scissor close. It should not close more than half way. If it does, the tension is too loose. The blades need to ride against each other to cut properly, and when the scissor is too loose, the blades will push and/or fold the hair. The stylist's natural reaction is to push with their thumb, which puts undue stress on the hand and on the blades. It will actually cause the blades to dull more quickly. If the tension is too tight, in which case during the test the blades didn't close at all, you will be stressing your hand and the ride area of the blades, as any hair or dust could get ground into the metal. Most cutting problems with otherwise sharp shears are due to tension, so make sure you check it.
Clean your scissors. Built-up hair, oil and dirt cause wear. Wipe your scissors between cuts with a clean cloth, preferably a microfiber. Open the scissors as far as you can and really get into the pivot area, the most common site for build-up. When clean, apply a drop of scissor (not clipper!) lubricant to each blade in the pivot area. This will help make sure the scissors operate smoothly for the next cut. Also clean your scissors at the end of the work day.
Store your scissors. Invest in a good padded leather case. Make sure your scissors are clean and dry, and put them in the case. Don't just throw them in the drawer!
Proper care and maintenance will insure you get more good cuts between sharpening and more years of service out of your scissors.
8. Why use one supplier?
Your scissors are your primary tools. You should find one knowledgeable, trustworthy source for both your scissors and their maintenance. Having one trusted source for scissors will save you time and allow you to focus on your clients (and make more money!). Whichever company you choose should be able to provide you with an extensive selection of scissors to serve all of your cutting needs. They should also be able to sharpen, repair and maintain your scissors in like-new condition. We can do both. Our sister company is Scissor Empire.
